Jan 23 2012

How to Make Your Own Cider

People here in Chicago stepped outside this week to falling leaves, (rapidly) cooling temperatures, and that crisp scent in the air that could only mean one thing: Fall is really here. And with the brisk weather, falling leaves, and Halloween decorations comes another fall staple: apple cider.

Yes, cider! That sometimes clear, sometimes murky, dry-or-sweet-or tart libation that Americans drank by the gallon before beer came along and screwed everything up. Yet despite its seasonal charm, and despite a recent surge in popularity (no doubt thanks to my tireless efforts), for some people this drink is still hard to find. That’s why I’ve put together this helpful guide. Whether you’re like me and lament the downfall of hard cider as America’s beverage of choice or you’re thirsty for something different and our Beverages section holds no temptation, you’ll find the information you need in here.

At its core (no pun intended), cider-making is all about patience. Beer’s paltry one month aging time pales in comparison to the (at least) three month commitment required to ferment a batch of cider. In terms of physical effort, as well, it takes far less to prepare beer’s wort than it does cider’s juice (“must”). However, any home brewer familiar with the experience of sipping homemade cider and watching leaves fall can tell you it’s well worth the trouble!

Get your juice.

As cider is nothing more than aged apple juice, you’d think it’s as easy as buying a bottle of Indian Summer at the store and drilling in an airlock, but you’d be direly wrong. The preservatives in commercial apple juice ruin cider production-your average bottle of juice will rot before it ferments-and the lack of yeast means you’d need to add your own (discerning brewers can do this anyway, but it’s not strictly necessary). If you must buy commercial juice, buy a brand without preservatives or other weird chemicals; otherwise, head to your nearest apple orchard and buy some fresh apple juice.

More experienced brewers-or those looking for a challenge-can start completely from scratch by going to an orchard and obtaining fresh apples. This method is time-consuming and difficult; in addition to picking the right blend of apples, you must mash (“scrat”) and press the apples yourself to get your juice. Small volumes of apple juice can be obtained through juicers and small presses, but it’s advised you buy or you’re your own equipment for larger amounts. All this can be tough work, but it offers something premade juice does not: total control over your cider-making experience. If you do decide to start from scratch, you’ll also need to carefully balance your apples. To create a dry cider, use a balance of 2:1 tart apples to sweet. To create a sweet cider, do the opposite. And never use cooking apples.

The nice thing is, once you’ve obtained your must, the process gets simple.

Store the juice.

First of all, get a glass or wooden fermentation container to store your juice. This can be anything from an airtight jar to a full-sized barrel, depending on the volume of cider you’re looking to produce. As with all brewing tools, your container must be sterilized before use. Pour in the must, and be sure the container fills to the top. Leaving extra space for air virtually guarantees you’ll end up making apple vinegar-not that apple vinegar is a bad thing, but it’s not what we’re trying to make!

Once your must is in its fermentation container, check the gravity of the juice. This is the density of the liquid, and it’s an indicator of just how alcoholic your drink will be-the higher the number, the more potent the brew. It’s not a critical step, but if you’re going for predictable results, pick up a hydrometer. Gravity should ideally be between 1.050 and 1.080.

Pitch the yeast (maybe).

Traditional cider is made using only the yeast present in the skins of the apples. If you’ve got fresh-pressed must or untreated juice from an orchard, you don’t need to add any yeast at all. However, if you’re using store-bought juice or want to more exactly control your fermentation, pitch in a vial of champagne yeast (available from brew supply stores). Then close your fermentation container, seal it, connect an airlock (partially filled with water), and play the waiting game.

The waiting is the hardest part.

Store your containers in a dark place between 40 and 60 degrees and proceed to twiddle your thumbs for at least a month, preferably three. You should check on the containers regularly-once the bubbling stops, the yeast has consumed all the sugar in the juice, and it’s time to bottle, or rack, the resulting cider. You’re almost done! After sampling the fruits of your labors to make sure disaster hasn’t struck, use sterile tubing to siphon your cider into bottles.

Now, before you cap the bottles, a question: do you want carbonated cider? Traditional ciders are almost always flat, but most popular modern cider has at least some carbonation. If you want sparkle in your sip, pitch in a little extra-fine sugar for the yeast to continue chowing down on. Otherwise, simply bottle the cider.

If all this looks too intimidating but you still want to try some fresh-made cider, kits can also be purchased from Mr. Beer.

Now that you’ve got hard cider of your own, consider these fun applications:

Apple Cider Corned Beef and Cabbage

Buttery Mulled Cider

Baby Back Ribs with Spiced Apple Cider Mop

Apple Cider Punch

But make sure to save a bottle or two. Some days, there’s nothing better than cracking one open, drinking deeply, and watching those leaves fall.

Jan 21 2012

DIY Beer Taps Coming Soon?

When you hit your favorite bar or restaurant and order your preferred brew, it seems only natural that your server should bring it to you. However, that might not be the case for that much longer. Taking a cue from the self-serve soda fountains that can be found in most fast food restaurants today, a new DIY dispensing system just might be coming your way. What is this system and how does it work?

TableTenders

TableTenders is a system invented by an Atlanta company, Table Tap LLC. The system is remarkably simple. A series of taps is installed at each table. The diners and drinkers can then sample each as they like, drinking at their own pace. There are some significant advantages to be found here that go far beyond being able to serve yourself.

You Avoid the Bar

How many times have you stood at a crowded bar and waited to be noticed, or waited endlessly for the bartender to finally get around to you? With this new system, there’s no longer a problem of long waits to refill your mug. When you finish one, just hit the tap at your table and refill it on your own!

You Avoid the Server

Servers are an important part of any restaurant and they can make or break an establishment’s reputation. However, busy nights usually mean that you have to wait until your server has a chance to check on your situation to get a refill on your beer. On very busy days that can take quite some time. With TableTenders, that’s no longer a problem. Just pour yourself a fresh mug and off you go.

Buy the Horse, But Not the Cart

How often have you wanted to try a particular beer but didn’t want to pay for an entire pint just to see if you liked it? TableTenders serves up charges based on the ounce – not by the serving. That means that you can sample a few ounces of each beer on tap at your table and come off cheaper than buying a glass of each.

Computer Controls

TableTenders operates with a computer control system – both at your table and for the venue. You can see how much you’re being charged via an LCD screen, and make your drinking decisions based on that information. The restaurant or bar can also track how much you have consumed. However, the system has a 32-ounce limit per person that will immediately shut down the tap once it’s been reached.

Poto Cervesia,

Dustin Canestorp

Jan 20 2012

How To Make Beer: A Bottling Wand Makes Bottling Less Of A Hassle

One step in the process of how to make beer is bottling the beer after it completes fermentation. One piece of equipment that can make this task easier is a bottling wand. You do not absolutely need a bottling wand, but you may find that it is a worthwhile purchase to simplify the how to make beer process.

A bottling wand offers many advantages. If you bottle without a wand, then you will need to do so using a siphon. This can be a little tricky, especially the first few times you do this. It can also prove to be a bit of a hassle even after you have it down. As an alternative, you could pour the beer into a funnel into the bottles. But this can be really troublesome trying to lift 5 gallons of beer to pour into a funnel. Not to mention, it is a good way to aerate the beer, which is something you want to avoid doing.

To make this task easier and more efficient, it is a good idea to have a bottling bucket with a spigot. If you do not have a spigot on your bottling bucket, you can always add one to it. This is just another possible DIY project that exists when learning how to make beer. It isn’t too difficult a project either.

Once you have a spigot, you can connect your bottling wand to some vinyl tubing to connect to the spigot directly. You only need a few inches of tubing. Then, you can place the bucket at the edge of a counter or table with the wand pointing down. Simply place your bottles up into the bottling wand. Pushing the bottom of the bottle into the wand will release a flow of beer. When you have filled your bottle, release the bottle from the wand, and the flow of beer will stop. This makes pouring much easier, because you can control the flow of the pour (as opposed to having to pinch the siphon to stop the flow).

But the big advantage bottling wands offer is that they fill your beer bottle from the bottom up. For one, this eliminates the guesswork as to the amount of headspace you need to leave for carbonation. The wand itself will displace space in the bottle. Once the bottle is full of beer, stop the flow. Once you remove the wand, the perfect amount of headspace will be left.

Also, this method keeps you from splashing the beer into the bottles, which agitates the beer and allows oxygen to get into it. You want to avoid this at all costs. Remember, the air has germs, bacteria and other microorganisms that want to get into your beer and contaminate it. So you want to avoid splashing the beer and aerating it.

Here is a bottling tip that will simplify the process, and keep things clean as well. If you have limited space, this is perfect. For bottling beer, you need to have the bottles sanitized prior to using. Simply place the bottles top down in your dishwasher a couple hours before you bottle. Run them through a wash cycle, but do not use any soap or drying agents, just hot water. This will actually sterilize the bottles, even better than sanitizing them!

Then, after they have dried, place your bottling bucket on the counter just above the dishwasher. Connect your vinyl tubing to the spigot, and also connect your bottling wand. Then, open the dishwasher door all the way and bottle on the door (or above it). This way, if you have any spills, they wind up on the dishwasher door and not all over your floor. Plus, your bottles are close by and ready to go.

A bottling wand is not essential in the process of how to make beer. However, it is an upgrade to seriously consider adding to your first equipment kit, or purchasing early into learning how to make beer. It makes the process of bottling much easier.

Jan 18 2012

DIY Solar Panel – A Cheaper and Equally Good Alternative For Commercially Made Solar Panel

A solar panel cost depends on the amount of energy it could generate. I say to you! Even deliveries are not cheap. A solar panel with generating capacity of 120w sold to you in bargain price without shipping charges would cost around $650 dollars. Still you’ve spend a fortune for it even considering the saving it could generate. To make matters worse, since you do not have any idea how to install it. You will then have to hire a technician and spend another considerable amount of money for it.

Want a cheaper and equally good alternative?

Then build your own DIY solar panel. With the right instructional manual, a complete list of materials and contact detail of manufacturers, building solar energy panel would cost only $200 dollars of your salary. Yes it is true. You will be able to construct a 120w solar-panel for only $200 dollars. This saves you as much as $450 dollars enough to build another one to increase the generation of electricity. With $50 dollars still at hand, you can still buy a case of beer to celebrate your independence.

For first timers Earth 4 Energy provides very good instructional guide on how to construct these panels.
What is only required are the following:

• Detailed instructional manual (much better if given by an expert)
• A complete list of materials needed
• A classified list of materials from manufactures which only a few knows
• Oneself

Nearly everybody could make their own solar energy panels be it a female, male, middle-aged, old or young to power up a number of home appliances, heating the house or power even the entire house, if possible.

As you could see DIY solar panels aren’t costly as you thought it is. Moreover, using it could save you a lot of money in contrast to buying commercial made and having it installed. Don’t forget to look into my guide that contains over a 100 page of information, pictures and videos.

Jan 17 2012

The Mashing Process For Beer Brewing

In beer brewing, mashing is a process of soaking grains in order to draw out flavor, color, and fermentable sugars. Mashing is not to be confused with steeping. Both processes are the same, but there is one key difference: mashing adds fermentable sugars to the wort, while steeping does not. There are some other differences between the two, but this is a simplistic way to explain the differences.

Steeping uses specialty grains that have already been mashed. Mashing uses base malts that need to be mashed. You do not want to steep base malts because this will add starches to the wort that have not been converted to sugar. As a result, your final beer will end up with the starches in it, which will affect the clarity and mouthfeel of your beer.

You can combine base malts and specialty malts together, and by doing so you are now mashing. When combining the two, you must make adjustments to ensure that you mash the base malts in order to convert the starches into sugars you can use. When combining specialty malts and base malts, you can do a partial mash or go all out and do a full mash, which is all grain brewing. Partial mashing is right in the middle between extract brewing and all grain brewing.

The difference between partial mashing and all grain brewing is the use if malt extract. Partial mashing involves using the malt extract, either as your only base malt or with additional base malt(s). In all grain, you are mashing all your base malt(s) from grains and not using any extract.

Mashing requires specific times and temperatures. You must mash the grains long enough and at the right temperature in order for the conversion of starches into sugars to take place. Therefore, mashing times are longer than steeping. Constant temperature is the other important factor.

When mashing for beer brewing, many brewers use a mash tun. This is yet another DIY project in beer brewing, so it does not require the purchase of any specialized beer brewing equipment. You can make a mash tun from a cooler. It is necessary to make a few adjustments to the cooler, so that it also doubles as a lauter tun which filters out the mash before racking to fermentation. This requires just a few steps and a few inexpensive pieces of equipment that you can get at any local hardware or home supply store.

There are different types of mashes that can be done, but the one that is most common is the single infusion method. Likely this will be the first one you attempt when you start mashing. Single infusion involves bringing a specific amount of water up to a certain temperature for mashing. The resting temperatures are usually between 149 F and 165 F.

Many brewers use 154 F as the preferred temperature for mashing because this gives a nice balance of body and fermentability that works really well with British and American style ales. To do a single infusion mash, the strike water (the water that is used for the mash) is heated to a temperature higher than the desired mashing temperature so that once the grains are added, the water temperature is where the brewer desires for mashing. In other words, the strike temperature is actually slightly higher than the mashing temperature to account for the drop in temperature that results after adding the grains.

John Palmer, author of the beer brewing bible “How To Brew”, uses the following formula to calculate the strike water temperature: Strike Water Temperature = (.2/R)(T2-T1) + T2. R represents the ratio of water to grain in quarts per pound, T1 is the temperature of the grains in Fahrenheit, and T2 is the target temperature of the mash in Fahrenheit.

Many brewers struggle hitting the proper mash temperature using the single infusion method. This can be frustrating. One note about the formula–it doesn’t account for heat loss to the mash tun. It assumes that the mash tun has a thermal capacity of 0. To get around this issue, you can preheat the mash tun with some boiling water or adjust the strike water temperature based on previous experience.

If you choose to adjust the strike water temperature, you need to make sure to keep the mash tun and grain temperature consistent between the different mashes. Another way to account for the unknown thermal capacity of the mash tun is to adjust the strike water’s temperature after it has been added to the mash tun and before adding the grains. This can be done by adding hot or cold water.

Jan 15 2012

Cool Apartment Stuff You Can Make Yourself, Cheap Or Free

You want to make your apartment as much a reflection of your style and personality as it can be without spending too much money, so have you thought of making cool apartment stuff yourself? Sure you can take on major DIY interior design projects that involve tearing down walls with heavy power tools, but you don’t really have to. There are simple, cheap, or even free home improvement plans you can take up which can be done in a day, an hour, or even in less time than it takes to read this article.

To start you off, here are five easy but very cool things to add to your apartment’s personality. Remember to put on your safety glasses and other safety gear when it comes to handling cutters and other potentially dangerous tools and objects!

Potato chip can light shade – You can also use a milk can or any similar object that you would otherwise throw away, but a cardboard tube such as used for some popular chips brands will be easier to cut. Make sure that the can fits over your bare bulb light fixture, so go for the thicker sized cans, not the narrow tubes. Cut holes in the can, such as random shapes, leaving only about half an inch of material between holes to give the shade some strength. The point is to have a lot more hole area than solid area, in fact the higher the ratio of hole to solid, the better. Take black spray paint and paint the entire thing inside and out, then cover the entire cylinder outside with a nice-quality tracing paper, just spot gluing it on so it doesn’t wrinkle. If the hole patterns turn out particularly nice, apply the tracing paper to the inside. Experiment with colored cellophane if you want to get funky. Then attach the entire rig to the ceiling with three or four small tabs of Velcro so you can remove it easily to change the bulb. Also, experiment with a hanging light.

Teabag air fresheners – Some people find the usual potpourri fresheners too overpowering. Try flavored black-teabags instead, like peppermint, orange cinnamon, and the like. Depending on the size of the room, three, four, or more teabags can be spread around so their smell wafts in the soft air currents that are present in any room with activity and movement. This is especially good in the kitchen to cover oniony or fishy smells.

Trinket mobiles – Collecting small trinkets like seashells and pretty rocks, dime-store jewelry or even printed photos and drink coasters when we travel or to mark waypoints in our life, is a nice way to keep good memories. Instead of keeping all the items in a drawer though, try hanging them with a string or a thin ribbon, each by itself or in a vertical column three items long, with the heaviest or biggest on top. Then hang these like mobiles by the window where the shiny ones can catch the light, or in irregular bunches on a plain wall. You get a nicely eclectic accent piece which will bring a smile to your face every time you see it.

Soda can pen holders – Instead of throwing your soda or beer cans away, make pen holders out of them. Just cut out the top and sand the sharp edges. You can also try applying a bead of PVA glue to the cut edges to dull them. I especially like to collect unique regional issues of cola cans and regional beers specifically to turn into pen holders.

Furniture socks – Old, shapeless thick socks still have life in them. Put them on the legs of heavy chairs and tables for a funky visual twist that also serves the purpose of making it easier to move them around when you’re vacuuming. Try same-colored socks for that formal look, or go punk with colorful mismatched sport and knee socks.

Cactus terrarium – Just like a goldfish bowl but without the hard-to-care-for goldfish. Small cacti are cheap, easy to take care of, and come in a wide variety of interesting shapes. Pick one that already comes in its own small pot, and put it in a clear goldfish bowl, burying the pot in decorative stones you can find at an aquarium supplies shop or in the hardware gardening section. If you have the space, go for a bigger aquarium and put more than one variety of cactus in it.

Let these simple projects get your imagination soaring! There’s virtually no end to the list of cool apartment stuff you can make yourself, all cheap or even free!

Jan 14 2012

DIY Weddings

Between booking a great location and buying your dream dress, weddings can really add up and before you know it, you’re over budget! There are a few sure fire way to cut costs – from having a reception at home to skipping the wedding planner and doing it yourself.

A DIY wedding needn’t be as overwhelming as it sounds – remember that you have bridesmaids, friends and family to help!

PAPER GOODS:

Making your own invitations and thank you cards can cut down on costs and have a more personal feel.

Check online for resources on creating homemade, one of a kind paper stationery and cards. Many sites and blogs have step by step instructions on how to create everything from invitations to thank you cards to place cards for dinner seating!
Buying paper and cardstock in bulk is cheaper than buying individual packs or getting custom made paper goods so check craft stores, office supply stores and online for the best prices. Don’t forget other supplies like paper cutters, scissors, ribbons and envelopes!
Making your own gifts can also save money as you can use leftover paper, flowers, ribbons and other items to create beautiful candle gift baskets for members of the wedding party, parents, and friends who played a role in the wedding.

DECOR:

Decorating is the main area where costs add up fast – buying floral centerpieces with candles, selecting the right chair cushions and sashes, renting the right lighting?

Try buying wholesale bulk candles as it’ll be cheaper to buy all the candles you need at once (for the wedding, reception, rehearsal dinner etc) than to make individual purchases for each event. Using tapered candles adds instant elegance to any table, especially when paired with decorative candle holders!
DIY floral arrangements are simple and easy to do and can be a fun activity for all the bridesmaids and bride to do together! Using flowers that are in season also saves money as out of season flora will have to be shipped or flown in at higher cost.

RECEPTION:

Why rent out a huge hotel ballroom at exorbitant rates when you can host your reception at home, at a friend’s or at a family member’s home for free?

Keep the food simple! Catering is expensive, but cooking is time-consuming and can be stressful. Think of cheap, quick options that get everyone involved – like a barbecue or a potluck reception. Finger foods are another great option as they can be made and stored in advance so you don’t need to stress about making anything on the big day.
Shop around for the best wine and champagne prices and keep in mind that buying multiple cases can lower costs as many wine shops offer discounts on bulk purchases. Also consider going with less expensive substitutes- like sparkling wine instead of champagne. For those who prefer beer or other alcoholic beverages, contact local breweries or liquor companies to see if they offer bulk purchase discounts or want to sponsor the wedding by providing free drinks! Many local companies see this as a great opportunity to advertise their brand in the local community.
Hiring a band or DJ can becomes pricey – skip the overpriced music and hook up your mp3 player. This is a guaranteed way to have only and all music that YOU like! Want to make sure someone is in control of the music? Ask a niece or nephew to “DJ” the party with their laptop and your mp3 player! This is a surefire way to avoid the dreaded “Macarena” on your special night!

PHOTOGRAPHY/VIDEO:

Wedding photographers/videographers can charge up to thousands per wedding, but you can always find alternatives!

Find a photography/film student from a local college – these students will have the training and be developing the skills of the professionals, but will charge half the price! Be sure to ask for samples of previous work (even school projects) to make sure they have a style you like. Alternately, if you know someone with photography/videography skills, ask that they shoot your wedding; it could be their wedding gift to you!
Put an ad in the classifieds – use your local resources, newspapers, community board, even Craigslist, to find cheaper alternatives to the big name wedding photographers/videographers.

Jan 13 2012

Secrets to Successful Brewing with Mr Beer

My main goal here at Cryptobrewology is to introduce people to the wonderful world of craft beers and home brewing, so I’d be remiss if I didn’t explore the possibilities even for those who just want to give home brewing a try, and don’t necessarily have the intention of taking it to the next level. In this case, I’m talking about the hobbyist who might give a Mr. Beer home brewing kit a whirl, just for fun.

In many conversations that I’ve overheard, or have been a part of regarding Mr. Beer, the comments are pretty much the same, “I tried Mr. Beer once, but it tasted bad.”

Typically, when people give something a try and it doesn’t turn out as expected, they are all too willing to blame the product or the system they used, and not evaluate their methods.

Mr. Beer sometimes gets a bad rap. Prior to sitting down to write this I actually tasted a Mr. Beer West Coast Pale Ale I had brewed, and it tasted great. Not yeasty, not sour, or sweet. It was mildly bitter, with a fruity and mildly floral hop nose. It had all the hallmarks of a commercial ale that I may have bought at the store. No kidding.

The key factors that led to this great tasting batch of Mr. Beer are proper sanitization, yeast pitching temp, fermentation temp, water quality, and patience. Ignore these and you’re destined to make a lousy brew, so don’t blame Mr. Beer!

Key Factor One: SANITIZE

I can’t stress it enough. Sanitize, Sanitize, SANITIZE! Make sure your kitchen counters are clean, make sure your hands are clean, and make sure you use the One Step no-rinse cleanser – included with every kit and refill – to sanitize the keg and your tools. Before bottling make sure you follow the directions and thoroughly sanitize the bottles.

No rinse means “NO RINSE!” There is absolutely nothing left behind by One-Step that can harm you or the beer. Rinse with tap water and you risk contaminating everything you have just cleaned. Don’t rinse, just drain.

Key Factor Two: PITCHING and FERMENTING TEMP

The Mr. Beer instructions advise us to use cold water in the fermenter prior to pouring in the wort, and then topping off with cold water before pitching the yeast. There is a reason for this. First, the wort is very hot and you don’t want to compromise the plastic keg fermenter, so put cold water in first, as a buffer.

Second, the yeast should not be added to the keg until the temperature is just about 70 degrees fahrenheit. 85 is not just about 70. You can monitor the temperature with a SANITIZED Thermometer, that’s what I do, or buy a Brew-O-Meter from Mr. Beer that sticks onto the fermenter, that works.

Topping off with cold water brings the brew up to the full fermenting volume, and will also help drop the temperature of the wort to within pitching range. If you don’t have a thermometer, just feel the sides of the keg. If it is cool to the touch, not warm or hot, then you’re okay. If the keg feels warm to you it’s too warm for the yeast!

After pitching the yeast you want to keep the keg somewhere out of direct sunlight, and where the temperature is consistent, somewhere between 68 and 72 degrees fahrenheit is recommended.

Temperature is critical for proper yeast performance. Too hot or too cold and you can kiss your beer goodbye.

Key Factor Three: WATER

Bottled water or filtered tap water are recommended for a reason. They are filtered to remove contaminants and will ensure a decent quality beer. I watched in horror as a YouTuber demonstrating Mr. Beer showed me how to top off the keg with cold water using his sink sprayer! You’re just asking for trouble if you do that. Who knows what microbial monstrosities are hanging out in the end of that thing?!

It’s better to just buy a few gallons of bottled water and stick them in the fridge. Case closed.

Key Factor Four: PATIENCE

Sanitization, temperature and water quality are critical components to producing a good batch of Mr. Beer – well, ANY home brewed beer actually – but another important factor, something many of us DIY-ers struggle with, is patience.

Sure, you can have drinkable beer in as little as two weeks with any home brewing process. That’s because, generally speaking, the fermentation process is usually complete in 7 days, and it only takes 7 days for the beer to carbonate after bottling. It’s drinkable, but it can be a lot better.

What makes it better is aging. Beer left alone in the fermenter for two weeks will settle and clear out a lot. There will be less sediment in the bottles, so less muck to stir up while pouring.

Remember that beer I mentioned? Do you know how long it was in the bottle? I waited a tad over two weeks before bottling, so the beer had cleared out considerably in the keg. Once bottled, I waited one week before putting the bottles into the refrigerator to halt carbonation*. I tried one beer each week after that.

The first one was a little “bready.” That’s one complaint I often hear about Mr. Beer. The yeasty odor is common early after bottling in any home brewed beer.

The second beer was less yeasty, but it had a slightly sour character.

The third beer, my most recent, had been in the bottle for about three weeks. That’s FIVE weeks since the day I brewed it.

Patience is a must! Don’t pour out your beers after only giving them a couple of weeks to mature. Commercial craft brewers let their beers rest, or age, in the bottles for three or four weeks before they hit the market. The full flavor of the beer needs that much time to develop.

To summarize, don’t knock Mr. Beer. You can get good results brewing your own beer. Brew it right, brew it clean, and be patient. You’ll find that the product isn’t the problem, it’s the brewer’s technique and patience.

* I read somewhere that it’s a good idea to chill the beer to halt carbonation, but if the beer has fermented fully before adding priming sugar and bottling, the yeast should have only enough to carbonate and will stop on its own. Also, this trick might work for ale yeast but lager yeast will continue to ferment at lower temps if sugar is present.

Jan 12 2012

DIY Butterfly Garden For Your Deck

Learning how to make a DIY butterfly garden for your deck is a great way to combine the joy of gardening with the beauty of butterflies right outside your backdoor.

Plan Your Garden: Whether you are creating your own plans or modifying some existing designs, a plan is always the best way to begin and do-it-yourself (DIY) to save money. You may wish to use freestanding pots and planters or get window boxes or deck rail planters that hang from the rail to bring your butterfly garden up to eye level to create an ideal butterfly garden.

Flowers: The key is to plant a variety of native flowers, as well as those that can attract different kinds of butterflies. Flowers that look good and are easy to use in window boxes are “butterfly bushes,” daylilies, asters, marigolds and lantanas. For the butterfly larvae you should think about growing milkweed plants, parsley and dill.

Types of Butterflies: Some of the most common butterflies found through North America are the Monarch, Mourning Cloak, Red Admiral and Common Wood Nymph butterflies. These may be a good starting place for beginners, but you may wish to do further research to see what species are most common in your area.

Butterfly Houses: Butterfly houses are a nice way to attract some species of butterflies and some can be mounted on top of your deck railing posts. Be sure to get one that has one or more glass sides, so you can watch them interact in a more intimate way. Add a piece of tree bark or some twigs, for the butterflies to use as a roost. You may even try to build your own DIY butterfly house. It is possible that some of the non-migratory species of butterfly might decide to spend the winter on your deck in your butterfly garden.

Butterfly Feeders: You can easily make a homemade butterfly feeder by using a plastic plate. For your DIY butterfly feeder punch three holes around the sides amd hang it with wire or string. Decorate wire with large faux flowers and hang near real flowers to increase probability that your feeder will be found. Alternatively, you can make a terracotta feeder, by taking any small sized terracotta pot and same sized saucer and turning them upside down. Apply glue to the bottom of the pot, and glue it to the bottom of the saucer. Once the glue dries, begin decorating the exterior of the pot and saucer with paint and/or by gluing tiles to make mosaic flower patterns. The pot will serve as the stand and the saucer will be the feeder.

Butterfly Food: Old bruised bananas, fermented apples that have fallen from one of your fruit trees and many others over ripened fruits can be used as nutrient sources for attracting some butterflies. Replace the fruit when they become dried out. You can make a homemade butterfly food nectar source by combing 4 parts water and 1 part granulated sugar and boiling until dissolved. Cool and serve in your homemade butterfly feeder.

Butterfly Puddles: Butterflies pull minerals and moisture out of damp soil, known as puddling. Males are known to draw from these puddles frequently, seeking salts and minerals. Create your own homemade butterfly puddle by burying a bowl filled with sand. Fill bowl with water, a sweet drink or stale beer, until sand is completely soggy. Butterflies love the sun, so add some large stones to create places for the butterflies to sun bath in your butterfly garden.

Building a DIY butterfly garden on your deck is an enjoyable and affordable do it yourself project. The combination of flowers and butterflies will create an environment that is excellent for entertaining guest or enjoying quietly on your own.

Jan 10 2012

Super Effective Dog Obedience Tips

If you are planning to buy a dog anytime soon, you have to realize that having a dog entails a lot of responsibility. One of the very first things you have to take care of once you bring a dog home is setting up an effective obedience training program. Dog obedience training is essential in making sure that your puppy grows up into a well-behaved dog. It is also a very good way of creating a lifelong bond with your pet. Here are three of the most effective dog obedience tips to get you started.

Think and act positively. While you may think that punishing a dog for bad behaviour is a good way to let him know who’s in charge, this isn’t actually the case. In fact, dogs never respond well to negative reinforcement such as yelling and physical punishment. Choosing positive over negative reinforcement at all times is one of the best dog obedience tips you should keep in mind. By using negative reinforcement, you will only succeed in pushing your dog away and losing his trust.

Dog obedience training is all about instinct, not logic. Dogs naturally work on instinct, so you have to train them in a way that makes use of their instincts. One of the most effective dog obedience tips relating to this fact is to make sure that you do not treat your dogs like human beings or expect them to think rationally like you do. It just doesn’t work that way.

For example, if your dog’s leash gets caught around a pole, his instinct will tell him to keep pulling until he gets free. Don’t yell at him to go around the pole and untangle himself because no matter how much you yell, the dog doesn’t understand that kind of logic. The best thing to do would be to guide him with hand signals and a gentle tone of voice. With enough repetition, your dog will soon be able to untangle his leash without your help.

Be consistent. This also ranks among the most important dog obedience tips because consistency is the key to successful dog training. If you want to discourage your dog from jumping up on furniture, then you will have to issue a firm “NO” every time he makes a move to do so. Saying no at one time and then ignoring the behaviour another time will send mixed signals to your dog; he may not understand which behaviours are acceptable and which are not. Ask all other members of the household to be consistent about the dos and don’ts as well.

No matter what breed of dog you are planning to buy, these dog obedience tips should come in handy when you start obedience training. Just make sure that the training begins when the dog is still young, preferably seven to eight weeks old. Remember as well that dog obedience training is a process that may take a while to complete, so you need to be very patient. With patience and consistency, you will surely be able to take full advantage of these dog obedience tips.